Have you ever had a specific vision for a project, scoured the internet for the perfect stitch, and came up empty-handed? That is exactly how this stitch was born!
I was recently designing a bow and I desperately wanted hearts that I could crochet from bottom up rather than the typical side-to-side you see in most patterns because I needed to decrease the side. So, I grabbed my hook and designed this Bottom Up Crochet Heart Stitch myself!
If you’ve been intimidated by colorwork hearts or bobbles that eat up too much yarn, you are going to love this method. It creates a stunning, lacy texture with distinct heart shapes that emerge like magic after a four-row repeat. It is elegant, unique, and easier than it looks!
Why You’ll Love This Stitch
- Unique Orientation: You create most heart stitches from side to side. These are created from the bottom up.
- Logical Repeat: Once you get through the first vertical repeat (4 rows), the rhythm becomes very meditative.
- Versatile: It works up beautifully in lightweight yarn for a delicate look, or worsted weight for a cozy, chunky effect.
Materials & Tools
- Yarn: The sample in the photos uses Sport Weight Yarn (My Time Merino by Gabo Wool), but this stitch is very versatile and works well with DK or Worsted weight as well.
- Hook: 3.5 mm crochet hook (or a hook size corresponding to your chosen yarn to get a good drape).
How many chains should you crochet?
Understanding the stitch multiple is vital if you want to turn this into a blanket or scarf.
The Multiple: 17 stitches + 2.
Explanation: The heart motif repeat is 17 stitches wide. You will need to chain a multiple of 17, and then add 2 extra stitches at the very end for your edges.
Pattern Notes & Abbreviations
- Skill Level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US Standard Terms
- Turning Chain: The Ch 2 at the start of the row counts as the first stitch throughout the pattern.
Abbreviations
- Ch: Chain
- St: Stitch
- HDC: Half Double Crochet
- DC: Double Crochet
- Sl St: Slip Stitch
- Sk: Skip
- Yo: Yarn Over
Special Stitches
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into the 3rd ch from the hook.
Dc2Tog (Over Stitch and Picot): This is used to close the top of the heart.
- Yo, insert hook into the indicated stitch, Yo and pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook).
- Yo, insert hook into the Picot space, Yo and pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook).
- Yo, pull through all 3 loops.
How To Crochet The Bottom Up Heart Stitch
Foundation Chain: Chain 18, then chain 2 more – this counts as one stitch (Total 20 chains). This counts as 19 stitches for this swatch.
Note: If making a larger project, chain a multiple of 17 + 3 (which counts as the multiple + 2 edge stitches + 1 turning chain).
Setup Row: Work 1 HDC in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (Total: 19 sts)
Row 1 (First Half of Hearts): Ch 2 (counts as first st), turn.
- DC in the next st (edge stitch).
- Begin Repeat: Ch 2, sk 1 st, sl st in the next st. Sl st in the next 2 sts.
- Ch 2, make a Picot (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook).
- DC into the same st where you placed your last sl st.
- DC in the next 3 sts.
- (Repeat ends here. For the swatch, repeat the sequence until the last st).
- End the row with 1 DC in the last st (edge stitch).
Row 2 (Closing the Hearts): Ch 2 (counts as first st), turn.
- DC in the next 3 sts.
- Dc2Tog working the first leg in the next st, and the second leg into the Picot created in the previous row.
- Ch 1, sk the ch-2 sp below, DC in the next st.
- Ch 1, DC in the same st (V-stitch made).
- DC in the next 3 sts.
- Dc2Tog over next st and Picot.
- Ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, DC in next st.
- Ch 1, DC in same st.
- End the row with 1 DC in the last st.
Row 3 (Shifted Hearts): Note: This row is similar to Row 1 but the position of the heart shifts.
- Ch 2 (counts as first st), turn.
- DC in the next 4 sts.
- DC in the next st.
- Begin Repeat: Ch 2, sk 1 st, sl st in the next st. Sl st in the next 2 sts.
- Ch 2, make a Picot.
- DC into the same st as the last sl st.
- DC in the next 3 sts.
- (For the swatch: Repeat the heart construction once).
- End with 1 DC in the last st.
Row 4 (Closing Shifted Hearts): Note: This row is similar to Row 2 but shifted.
- Ch 2 (counts as first st), turn.
- Dc2Tog over the first st and the Picot.
- Ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, DC in next st.
- Ch 1, DC in the same st.
- DC in the next 3 sts.
- Dc2Tog over next st and Picot.
- Ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, DC in next st.
- Ch 1, DC in same st.
- DC in the last 4 sts.
- End with 1 DC in the turning ch.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for as wide as you’d like your fabric to be!
Finishing
The Magic of Blocking
I cannot stress this enough: You must block this stitch! Because of the chains, slips stitches, and varying tensions involved in shaping the hearts, the fabric may look a little crumpled or “messy” straight off the hook. This is normal!
- Soak your finished piece in lukewarm water for 10 minutes.
- Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring).
- Pin it flat on a blocking board, opening up the lace sections to define the hearts.
- Let it dry completely.
The “After” result is night and day-the diagonal hearts will open up and look crisp and professional.
Conclusion
I hope you enjoy making this Side-to-Side Heart Stitch as much as I enjoyed designing it! It’s a wonderful addition to your stitch library, especially for Valentine’s Day gifts or when you just want to add a little love to your work.
Video Tutorial
Prefer to learn visually? Watch the full step-by-step video tutorial below to master the tricky parts of the Dc2Tog and Picot placement!