The Honey Pouch – Free Crochet Pouch Pattern

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Have you ever had a project idea that just wouldn’t let you go? A while back, I wanted to make a special D&D dice bag for my boyfriend. I had this vision of a honeycomb texture because, let’s be honest, it looks a little like dragon scales which is perfect, right?

I originally tried to knit it. I cast on, fought with the needles, and quickly realized that keeping the tension consistent for honeycomb stitch was an absolute nightmare. I decided to ditch the needles and grab my hook, but when I scoured the internet, I couldn’t find a crochet honeycomb pouch.

So, I did what any maker would do: I designed it myself.

Meet the Honey Pouch. It’s seamless, worked in the round, and simpler than it looks. Whether you need a tiny pouch for a single set of dice, or you want to make the largest size for a stunning bucket bag, this pattern has you covered. Hope you will enjoy this crochet pouch free pattern!

Scroll down for the free pattern below, or support my work and purchase the ad-free, printer-friendly PDF pattern here.

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Why You’ll Love This Pattern

  • That Texture: The “Honeycomb” mimics woven fabric or scales. It creates a thick fabric so noting will fall out of your pouch!
  • Seamless Construction: The pouch is made in the round from the bottom up – no sewing required!
  • Versatile Sizing: The pattern comes with instructions for three sizes. You can easily customize your size too!
  • Stash Buster: You can use any yarn weight you have on hand.

Materials & Tools

One of the best things about this project is its flexibility. Here is what you will need:

  • Yarn: Any yarn weight will work! You’ll need approximately 150 (210) 270 meters / 164 (230) 295 yards.
    • My Pick: The samples shown were made using YarnArt Manhattan (black and silver one) and Fraya Warm (gray one).
  • Hooks: You will need two hooks.
    • One hook recommended for your yarn (e.g., 4 mm).
    • One hook one size bigger (e.g., 5 mm) for the body of the bag.
  • Notions: Scissors, measuring tape, tapestry needle, and stitch markers.
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Sizing & Gauge

Because you can use any yarn, gauge isn’t critical, but your hook choice matters. If you are using just one hook size for the whole project, make sure to use one size bigger than recommended on the yarn label to ensure the honeycomb stitch drapes well.

Finished Measurements (Circumference x Length):

Size 1 (Small): 28 cm x 12 cm [11 in x 4.75 in]

Size 2 (Medium): 38 cm x 15 cm [15 in x 6 in]

Size 3 (Large): 48 cm x 20 cm [19 in x 8 in]

Pattern Notes & Abbreviations

Terminology: US Standard Terms

  • Ch: Chain
  • Sc: Single Crochet
  • Sl st: Slip Stitch
  • Inc: Increase (2 sc in one st)
  • St(s): Stitch(es)
  • Esc: Extended Single Crochet
  • Msc: Modified Single Crochet

Special Stitches

You can find a detailed tutorial for the honeycom stitch in the round here!

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This pattern uses two unique moves to create the honeycomb look:

Extended Single Crochet (Esc): This is slightly taller because it is worked into the row below. Insert your hook into a stitch two rows below, yarn over, and pull up a longer loop (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops.

Modified Single Crochet (Msc): This connects the “bars” of the honeycomb.

  1. Insert your hook under the vertical leg of the previous Esc.
  2. Insert your hook under the vertical leg of the next Esc.
  3. Twist your hook slightly to secure the strands, then insert your hook into the top of the current stitch (the normal place).
  4. Complete a normal Single Crochet.

The Honey Pouch Pattern Instructions

Workflow: First, we crochet a flat bottom circle using the smaller hook. Then, we switch to the larger hook to work the sides in the honeycomb pattern. Finally, we add drawstring holes and finish the top edge.

Note: Ch 1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch. Always sl st to the first stitch to join.

Part 1: The Bottom Circle

Use your smaller hook.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Make 6 sc into the ring. Join. (6 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1. Make 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1. Sc inc, sc in next st. Rep around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in first st, sc inc, sc in next st. Rep around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1. Sc inc, sc in next 3 sts. Rep around. (30 sts)

Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in next 2 sts, sc inc, sc in next 2 sts. Rep around. (36 sts)

Round 7: Ch 1. Sc inc, sc in next 5 sts. Rep around. (42 sts)

Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in next 3 sts, sc inc, sc in next 3 sts. Rep around. (48 sts)

Round 9: Ch 1. Sc inc, sc in next 7 sts. Rep around. (54 sts)

Continue increasing in this manner (adding 6 stitches per round) until your circle measures:

  • 9 cm (3.5 in) for Size 1
  • 12 cm (4.7 in) for Size 2
  • 15 cm (6 in) for Size 3
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Part 2: The Sides (Honeycomb Stitch)

Switch to the larger hook. Keep your tension loose. You can find a detailed tutorial for the Honeycomb stitch with video here.

Rounds 1-2: Sc in every st.

Round 3: Ch 1. Esc, sc in next st. Repeat from * to the end.

Round 4: Ch 1. Msc, sc in next st. Repeat from * to the end. Note: The first Msc connects the last Esc and the first Esc of the previous round.

Round 5: Ch 1. Esc in next st (ensure hook goes between the ‘V’ on the wrong side), sc in next st. Repeat from * to the end.

Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 until the work measures:

  • 8 cm (3.25 in) for Size 1
  • 10.5 cm (4.25 in) for Size 2
  • 15 cm (6 in) for Size 3
  • Or about 3-5 cm [1.25-2 in] before your desired total length.

Part 3: Drawstring Holes

Now we create the spaces for the cords. First, calculate your interval: Divide your total stitches by 8. If you have a remainder of sts, divide them evenly between the intervals.

Round 1: Ch 1. Sc until one st remains before your calculated interval. Sk 1, ch 1. Repeat this for all 8 intervals around the pouch.

Part 4: Top Edge

Round 1: Ch 1. Sc in every st and ch-1 space.

Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in every st.

Round 3: Ch 1. Esc, sc in next st. Repeat from * to end.

Round 4: Ch 1. Msc, sc in next st. Repeat from * to end.

Round 5: Ch 1. Esc in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 until you have a total of 6 (8) 10 top edge rounds.

Final Round (WS): Turn your work to the Wrong Side. Ch 1. Sl st in the back loop of every st. Cut yarn and fasten off.

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Making the Drawstrings

You can find a detailed tutorial fom making i-cord drawstrings with video here

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Switch back to the smaller hook. We will make two i-cords.

  1. Start: Ch 2. Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook and draw up a loop.
  2. Row 1: Drop 1 loop from hook (hold it with your finger so it doesn’t unravel!). Yarn over and pull through the remaining loop. Insert hook into the dropped loop, yarn over, and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
  3. Repeat Row 1 until the cord measures your pouch circumference + 4 cm (1.5 in).

Make two identical cords.

Threading the Bag

Lay your pouch flat so you have a distinct right side and left side.

  1. Take the first cord. Start at the right side hole. Weave it in and out of the first 4 holes, skipping the left side hole, and weaving back around until it comes out of the same hole you started with. Knot the ends.
  2. Take the second cord. Repeat the process starting from the left side hole.
  3. Pull both knotted ends simultaneously to cinch the bag shut!
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Conclusion

I hope you love making this Honey Pouch as much as I did! It’s such a satisfying texture to watch grow. If you decide to tackle the large size, you’ll have a stunning bucket bag that looks way more complicated than it actually is.

Don’t forget to grab the ad-free, printable PDF version of this pattern [here] for easy crafting on the go.

I’d love to see your creations! If you share your work on Instagram, please tag me @artsymaki and use the hashtag #HoneyPouch so I can see your beautiful work.

Happy Crocheting!

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